NTPOG 5th Gen Stock Resonator Removal

Author: Todd Marcucci
 


Remove the Resonator?
Removing the resonator isn't "required," though it's mass and weight that's not necessary. There's no reason you can't skip that step altogether and just install your intake from here (as long as it is a short-ram type and not a cold-air). If you are leasing or plan to sell the vehicle soon, you may want to leave it in to avoid having to re-install it later. Or you might want to remove, and not worry about putting it back in when you sell it- it's all up to you. The stock intake works fine w/o the resonator, it's just a little louder, and aftermarket short-ram intakes works just fine with it in.

Keep in mind that the resonator was put there to quiet the intake noise. If you keep your stock intake but remove the resonator, your stock intake will sound (somewhat) aftermarket. If you're looking for that sound, this is great, but if you like a quiet intake and are looking for a power gain, this is probably not a mod for you- power gains from the resonator removal are very limited, probably on the order or 2-3 hp.

On to Removal... Find Them Bolts!
If you are comfortable removing the front bumper, it may be a little faster/easier for you to get the resonator out. This writeup assumes you're not that familiar with it, and there *are* a lot of bolts and clips and it can get complicated for the novice. Let's assume you don't want to remove the bumper...

Honda must have expected a lot of front-end collisions, because the esteemed engineers there didn't want this baby coming out. It's not that hard, once you know what to look for (a LOT of bolts). Let's start with the easy part- your side marker (yes, the side marker):

Remove the philips head screw there, then pop it out from the side the screw is on. It will then slide forward and out. Remove the wiring connector and set it aside (now would be a good time to install those clear side markers you ordered).

Now...

This may sound obvious, but worth noting- be careful as your author scratched his 97 doing this the first time. There is another philips head screw towards the rear of the marker housing; remove it, and snap the outer ring out. It takes a little "finesse" but you can then work the housing out of the bumper skin. Don't worry if you lose the electrical connector, it's relatively easy to fish back out. The whole point of all this is to expose...


...this guy. Use your trusty 10 mm and extension to get him out.

You jacked up the car, right? If not, you will need to. Remove the following screws from the splash shield:

You might find it easier to remove a few more; also note where the screws go (there are two different types). There are actually two shields at work here, which overlap. Pay attention to how they do so you can get it back together (we don't include those instructions!!!). You will also need to get this one, in the wheel well:

Once you get all the bolts out, peel back the shields like so, to get the the following one:

You're probably getting pretty good at this by now. Take this one out, like the rest. Then turn your attention back to the wheel well...


...and get this one.

And now for grand finale, remove the resonator. You only get one pic here, because it's too hard to do it and take pictures at the same time ; )

This is best accomplished by pulling it down (through the wheel well) toward the shield under the front. In other words, yank down and push forward. You'll find that even though the bolts are out the rubber mounts will still hang on. While doing this, you will need to disconnect the vacuum line to the butterfly valve (look under the hand in the pic). It's hard to see (and remove) but it can be done (and makes removal possible). You might find, too, that you need to "bow out" the bumper skin (away from the car) a little to bring the resonator down.

Continue to Butterfly Controller Removal...



This page last updated 4/3/01.