Author: Todd Marcucci
Why Remove them?
If you opt not to remove the vacuum lines and related equipment, tie off or plug the vacuum line that was going down to the butterfly valve; doing so will help to keep your vacuum up to snuff and keep crap out of your engine.
For the rest of you, looking down near where the intake box was, you can see the vacuum unit (circled in red) and his friend, the bolt (in white):
Remove the bolt. You'll also need to remove the electrical connector to the switch housing. Don't worry, it's simply a switched ground from the ECU and power so that it can "switch" the vacuum. Simply tie it off to something else (there is another harness nearby) so that it doesn't flap around.
You can also remove the vacuum line going down to the resonator/butterfly, and remove the long one that snakes up to the throttle body. When you remove the line coming off the throttle body, you'll notice that you leave a stub there that's going to suck in air. Not only will this affect performance, it also allows unfiltered air into the engine. You'll notice that another of the "stubs" there has a vacuum cap on it. If you can find another, you can use a vacuum cap (you should be able to find these at your local auto store) where you just removed the line. If you're lazy, like the author, you can do this:
You can easily take the hose you just removed, cut a short piece, and connect the two stubs together (same as plugging them). Notice that one was moved over to accommodate this procedure (with no ill effects).
By removing the vacuum hardware, you now expose a few nice spots for bracket mounting:
Think about where your intake will need to mount. The Iceman comes with mounting hardware for the 4th Gen (Knight was pretty lazy). There are a few good spots on the bracket that held the vacuum hardware; most intakes are heavy enough to require some type of mount.
So are you ready to install your new intake now?
This page last updated 4/3/01.