NTPOG 5th Gen Brake Line Installation

Author: William Howell

Before You Start...
Be it knownst that NTPOG isn't responsible for your own intelligence (or lack thereof). Practice common sense when working with power tools (or non power tools for that matter) and around jacks, lifts, etc. NEVER get under a vehicle that isn't supported by at least 2 jack stands AND a floor jack. You should also buy a pair of wheel chocks and get to know them well. That being said...

Why? Under hard braking, the stock brake lines can expand and cause the brake pedal to feel mushy and unresponsive.  The stainless steel brakelines help to eliminate this expansion and consequently, the brake pedal feels firmer and gives better feedback.

What do I need to do the job right? First off, you need a floor jack, a couple of jack stands and a set of wheel chocks (see the above warning).
A set of ratchets
An assortment of metric sockets (mainly 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm)
A couple of extensions
5mm allen key
An assortment of metric open/box end wrenches (mainly 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm)
Torque wrench
Good Pliers
A container to catch brakefluid (something to don't need to keep!)

Front Brakelines We will do the front brakelines first. Before you jack up the car, break torque on all of the front lug nuts. Jack up the front of the car and support it with two jack stands on either side of the car at the stock jack points (you will have to jack the car up by the front tow hook to do this). After you set up the jack stands and take the wheels off, you car should look like this:

I recommend that you try to get the whole car up at once, so that you can remove all the wheels together. This will allow you to do all of the brakelines at once and bleed the brake system.

When doing this install, you will spill brake fluid. You need to put something under the brake calipers to catch the brake fluid when you do the install/removal of the brake lines. BRAKE FLUID IS EXTREMELY CORROSIVE AND WILL EAT PAINT OFF ANYTHING IT COMES IN CONTACT WITH!!! For this reason, if you have painted brake calipers, you might need to touch them up after installing the brakelines.

I recommend that you work with latex gloves on. Brake fluid is very corrosive and very slippery. When your gloves get brake fluid on them, all you have to do is wipe them off with a towel. Also, latex gloves will protect your hands from any brake fluid, grease, grime, etc.

Okay, lets get started. First, you need to remove the mounting bolt located on the steering knuckle (circled in red). Next, remove the banjo bolt on the back side of the front caliper (circled in blue). Remeber to have a container to catch the brake fluid that will leak out. The first caliper leaks the most. After that, the system is depressurized, so the other calipers should leak less. Now, loosen the fitting on the upper brakeline (circled in yellow). Remember not to get brake fluid on any painted surface. If you do, immediately wash the surface so that the brake fluid will not eat off the paint.


To finish removing the front brakeline, you will need to remove a small clip that holds the upper brakeline fitting to the mount. To do this, use a pair of pliers as shown:

To install the new brakelines, do the removal in reverse order. However, there are some important notes. Replace both crush bushings on the caliper fitting, one goes between the banjo bolt and the fitting; the other between the fitting and the caliper. Do NOT overtorque the banjo bolts!! They have a hole drilled through them and they are hollow. If you overtorque them, they WILL break inside of the caliper. I recommend that you use the stock banjo bolts, but some manufacturers might recommend that you use their bolts. If you use the manufacturer's bolts, torque to their specs. If you are using the Honda banjo bolts, torque them to 25 lb/ft.

Finally, here is a picture of the final install:


This page last updated 2/26/03.